The two are stacked, 2 layers of wax paper go under. Screw them down,
then go around with two or three layers of scotch tape.
Trim down the scotch tape, and wax the outer edge of the tape with a
candle.
Cut the candle so it will reach the bottom corner.
Steal one of the wifes plastic flower pot underlays. 7.5 inch diameter,
cut the outer edge off about 12 mm high.
This ring will be used to seal the outside of the Epoxy pour.
Wax the inside of the plastic ring, and also the bottom edge.
Fit the plastic ring around the flanges to check for about 6 mm
clearance or more.
Remove the plastic ring, it will be used later.
Coil Winding
Two heavy sewing needles used to hold the inner wire. I started using
thread to secure the wires together, then later switched to scotch tape.
At the end of wrap two, tape all the way around at various points to
hold the wires down securely.
The coil must be loose enough to lift up to add this tape around all
the wires.
Crossover at the completion of the second wrap, then tape just past the
crossover point.
Lift the coil off the form and now complete the next two turns with the
opposite color out using tape on all the same points.
Put the coil back on the form.
Waxing the large holes. Fill them both to the top.
Waxing is completed.
Remove any excess wax from the outside surface of the wires using an
alcohol whetted paper towel.
Wax will dissolve in alcohol, be careful not to soak the plastic form
or the resin will stick to it if the wax is removed.
Now add the plastic ring we prepared earlier, and tape it down to the
plywood with an even gap all the way around.
Two wire sized holes are drilled in the plastic, and then wax is melted
around them to seal the leaks.
You can hold the board up at about 80 degrees, and drip the wax over
the wire holes until a seal is formed all the way around them.
At this point I also added some fiberglass strands and pushed them down
on the lower outer hole between the plastic ring and the wires for
strength.
Pouring the Epoxy Resin to the top of the wires, slowly, as it will
seep in a bit over time.
Make sure the table is perfectly flat, so the finished ring will have a
very even thickness.
After about 30 minutes the Epoxy is gelled but very soft, remove the
black tape.
After about 3 hours, the Epoxy is still pretty flexible. Remove the
screws and lift the mold.
Remove the two wax paper layers from the bottom side.
Slowly run a sheet rock knife between the plastic base and the tape
layers of the coil being careful not to nick the wires.
It may take a bit of pressing around the ring to dislodge the coil from
the plastic mold. The wax layer should finally give.
Lift the coil and press out the wax plugs carefully, then crush them,
being careful not to damage the wires.
The large plastic outer ring must be cut through in one spot then
peeled away using needle nose.
With a little pressure the wires will come out of the holes as the wax
seal gives way.
If there are thin Epoxy runs along the outer bottom edge, they can be
trimmed off using a razor knife before the Epoxy reaches it final
hardness the next day.
The final crossover coil core should now be fairly strong and firm.
Fitting the coil to the lower cone set.
Fitting the top cone set on the coil.
Looks a bit better then the last attempt, and this time wound in the
correct direction!
Almost ready to begin testing!
Cosmetic & Wiring
Thin red electrician tape is the perfect size to wrap the Epoxy ring
with.
I used 2 - 1/2 turns on the outer edge of the ring.
8 sets of push in connectors will be used to close the circuit.
22 ga connectors also just happen to be red.
I striped 1/4 inch insulation off, tin the end with solder, then crimp
on the connectors.
The coil system can be disassembled in three parts.
Upper, center, and lower.
Wiring
Cones are both treated identically.
I chose to leave a little extra wire. Extending both inner to outer
rim, and outer to inner tip to cut exactly the same length, to the
connector.
For testing, the core coil is taped inside to the lower cone with
normal
width red electrician tape.
I believe this will be strong enough for testing purposes.
Wires are cut to length to turn the crossover point, 90 degrees past
the lower coupling point.
Splicing Angles
This is how it seemed to come out for me, and everything should be
relatively symmetrical.
Expected to manifest at resonance.
Dave L 4 - 13 - 2014
