Cone Jig Assembly and Coil Winding  { part 1 }

Update   4 - 14 - 2014
Update   6 - 24 - 2014




Build 1



Photo Sequence  [assembly of the cone coil winding form]

3 - 10 - 2014

Ron's wooden cone is quite impressive, and seems to be accurate enough in dimensions for a good 33 degree conical cone build!

Parts_Photo

The bottom plate is 5/8" plywood circle cut to a diameter of 14.25 inches using a plunge router and circle cutting jig.
The Lazy Susan bearings are screwed into the plate exactly centered from the center hole of the plywood circle with 4 small screws.



Inside Cone Photo

Showing Ron's construction of the cone, was done by gluing the curved pieces in layered Hex format and then lathing the outer angle to 33 degrees.
The cone is 14.25 inches diameter at the base and 2 feet high. The tip is removable so the cone can be set on a table and worked from the bottom side.



Base Plate Alignment

I wrapped electrical tape around the plywood to get as close to even with the bottom of the cone, as my circle cutting was not as accurate as Ron's.
It took about 4 wraps of the tape to get it very close.
The screw holes were made over sized so adjustments could be made to get the cone spinning true at the tip, then the plate locked down.



Turning True Photo

Alignment of the base plate, by spinning the cone slowly, then adjusting the base plate until the tip does not move side to side at all.



Alignment Gauge Photo

I discovered that as I moved my arm to spin the cone, my face also moved side to side, so I had to set up this wire center line marker directly over the tip, then sight from two angles at 90 degrees to make the adjustments accurately.



Locking the Base

Once the cone tip was spinning true I then locked down the sliding screws at the bottom.
Flipping the cone back over I then placed counter sunk flat ended brass screws in the remaining 4 points, then removed the two round head screws.



Finished Bearing Alignment Photo

The finished cone with base plate and bearings, spinning perfectly true.



Turns Counter Plate Photo

A secondary base plate was also cut exactly 2 inches larger in diameter at 16.25 inch diameter.
This one was marked for the bearings large holes and very small 1/4" wooden pins placed in the base so the cone will set on top and the lower bearing is not able to move sideways in any direction.
The large cone can still be lifted off this base, as the wooden pins simply stick up about 1/8 inch, and just enough to stop all motion of the lower bearing surface.

A mechanical counter register was added to the base plate, and a steel pin in the plywood base of the cone to activate it on each turn.
See the videos at the bottom for operation and mounting using 6 - 32 by 2 inch long hardware. The height of the counter must be set so the steel pin just flips the counter.

Ordered from Amazon.com
"Discountinkllc © 5 Digit Mechanical Click Counter Pull Stroke Manual Hand Tally Mounting"   [part number MA 162 from Discountinkllc]  $9.99



Trial Winding Photo

A small brass hook with screw thread and built in bent cup, is mounted at the tip to stop the wire from coming off and provide holding power for the turns that want to slide upwards as the coil is wound.

A trial run with 2 mm diameter 20 gauge wire.

The energy coming from the small coil is really quite strong to feel to the touch, especially touching the bare tip of the copper wire at the top.
The form will now have to be waxed with 3 or more coats of a release agent to prevent the fiberglass resin from sticking to it when the wire cone is removed from the wooden form.


Cork Tip

Cork Tip

I measured the upper tip diameter and calculated it cuts off 5 turns down to a needle size.
The height to the exact tip is 9.42 mm higher. I cut off a cork at 9.42 mm, stuck a sewing needle through it, stuck it on the tip of the cone then carefully trimmed the cork down with a razor knife until the lines matched the slope of the large cone.
The last turn is the diameter of the sewing needle, so the cone is now complete down to almost zero diameter. The needle can be removed after the resin is dried, but the cork will likely stay in the finished cone tip.



First Cone Build

3 / 21 / 2014

Winding and Epoxy

22 gage 2.07 mm outside diameter

Estimated VOP with Epoxy layer = 0.36
Wire Length =  531.66 feet
Turns = 296
1/2 Turns = 148
4 turns removed at center crossing area, so small cone can slide inside large cone.

Boat Yard Polyester Epoxy Resin - EverCoat 100 518.  [10 minute working time.]

Lesson - Epoxy the upper and lower cones before removing the center 4 turns next time. This caused a minor loss of tension on the wire of the lower cone, and you can see some of the turns popped outwards slightly.


Removal


Removal_1

The cones popped off the jig nicely with little resistance, due to the 7 coats of ORCA SHIMMER release agent wax I put on the wood. My first time, and this was rather amazing!


Cones Removed

I discovered one coat of the Epoxy was not strong enough to my liking, so I put the coils back on the form and did 2 more coats of the Epoxy resin.
Curing took longer then expected, and I had to heat the garage up to 75 degrees or so for 2 days for it to fully harden.

Learning experience - warm the garage well before doing the Epoxy work, or the drying process is painfully long.
You want the cone and wire to be up to temperature before the Epoxy goes onto it, or they will retard the hardening process.
It may be several more days before the curing smell stops.
 

First Finished Cone Set


Inside Accuracy

I was very happy with the accuracy of the angle and the smoothness of the final coils. I ended up leaving the small cork inside the upper tip of the cone, you can see it down there at the tip.
Will have to make another one for the next coil set. Also at about 500 feet the wire abruptly ended and taped to it, the next wire piece with no electrical splice in it.
Apparently they used 500 foot lengths to make up this 1000 foot reel! I had to splice it, which you can see near the lower end of the large coil.
I used solder and a red heat shrink tube, but the wire still bulges out a bit right there, and will probably generate small reflections from that point as it passes through the solder joint.

Lesson:
The large coil came out 3/4 inch too short! Something wrong with the turns counter.





Cone Build Two

After the first cone came out wrong, I was more aware of the turns counting on the second build. I discovered if the winder is paused in the middle of the counter click it can cause a double count of the one turn. Careful motion through the counter click position corrected this problem.

Here is the data on a correctly wound coil for build two. Also this 1000 foot reel of wire had no splices in it. Next time I will use a meter to check end to end continuity before selecting the wire reel.


Build 2 dimensions

Turns 146 to 149 are marked with a black ink Sharpe and must not be bonded with Epoxy, so the coils can be separated for inter penetration.

Boat Yard Polyester Epoxy, is now exchanged for a System 3 Clear Coat Resin, to increase the working time.
10 Minutes is not long enough to get a full coat on the whole coil. The new resin has a working time of 1 hour at 77 degrees F.

Preparations

Cone Prep

Masking tape was used to cover areas I do not want Epoxy on. It will be removed after ~1 hour, as the coat begins to gel and will no longer run over these areas.
Note also a thermometer was added on the bench to ensure a temperature at about 80 degrees F for the curing time of 6 hours, on each of 3 coats.
Like it or not this is a time consuming method.

First Epoxy Coat


Coil Build 2a

Showing the new Epoxy dries very clear, and I have gotten good alignment on the lower coil this time by not disturbing the center 4 winds before the Epoxy cured.


Extraction


Mold Drop

The small end of the coil lifted off pretty easily after separating the 4 winds marked in black. Fingers just under the wire edge an upwards lift about 4 times working around it, and up it came.
I ran a razor knife around the large end to separate the wire from the jig slowly, then applied a little pressure downwards, and the large coil end dropped right off the mold.
Inverting the cone like this makes removal of the large end much easier.


Completed Cone Set

3 - 25 - 2014   8:00 PM

Coil Build 2b

Sighting across the top, you can see both coils now are exactly the same height!
It has taken 4 days and nights to get this process down and turn out one acceptable cone set.

Mass Vibration Bubble Testing

3 - 26 - 2014  8:00 AM

Cones Inter Penetrating

With the cones setting in the finished configuration, for 1/2 the system, I run a finger along the outer edge and can feel the vibrations peaking at many of the various "infinite ratio" nodal points.
I have gotten a good enough accuracy, to feel infinity! It is rather interesting and a "deeper" feeling then I expected.
I can feel the 90 x point jump out at me. LOL! It feels really nice. [The 90x ratio generating a full 24 layered field inside it of platonic form vibration, filling all space inside the large cone end.]

Setting along the outside plane of the coil system I begin to feel an energy of vibration all around the overlapped cones up to about 9 feet away.
All through the lower section are the peaking points of Pi, Phi, Pi / 2, etc. Each one creating a vibrational plane all around the coil system approaching infinity wavelengths.
As a sensitive, I am quite impressed.
 
Also I can feel, I did not hit the target 333000 Hz as of yet. However the coil system is rich with vibration harmonics.


Vibration Note:

3 - 27 - 2014  8 AM

By the third cone build, I realized I can feel the end of a complete turn of the wire. There is a definite joining of each complete loop, similar to the way a magnetic field forms when current is flowing, as the wire closes a loop.
Hard to imagine, but each time I felt this loop completion, I then looked up to the top of the coil to see exactly above where the first loop started, a right angle bend in the wire turning it straight up. Somehow the wire knows where the loops begin and end.
 
Last coat of Epoxy on third coil set finished.

Epoxy Notes:

3 - 27 - 2014 10 AM

Each coat takes 3 oz of Epoxy on this cone. [It is the combination of 2 oz of resin and 1 oz of hardener]. Ratio is always 2 to 1 with this System Three Clear Coat product.
It now takes me 15 to 20 minutes to apply one coat of Epoxy.
Each coat takes 6 hours, from time of mix to hardened at 80 degrees room temperature. Gel happens around 1 to 1.25 hour in. 18 hours for three coats.

Black electrical tape was cut in half lengthwise, and comes out just right to cover the four center turns of wire to prevent them from bonding.
One layer black tape at the bottom for drips, and there will be runs and drips down there. During the first coat this tape also holds the bottom wire up and firmly in place.

Tape is removed after about 1.25 hours, just after the Epoxy coat transitions to the "gel state" and will not run or droop any further. If you remove it too soon, the wet Epoxy may still run over the center 4 wires. If it does it can still be separated within the 37 hour green time period. Set up the "left over" Epoxy in the small plastic container with the brush left in it, to test the hardness of the gel, before removing the tape. The Epoxy in the container will gel up about 15 minutes before it gels on the wire coil.

Cone must be removed from the mold after the 6 hour hardening period. Wires can still be easily flexed and even unwound at this point if necessary.
After 37 hours the Epoxy will reach it's final hardness and wire separation will then be very hard to accomplish.

Sister Cone

Another cone was built exactly the same with the same 4 turns removed at the center.
The top of one is now placed inside the bottom of the other, and visa versa to create two halves of the system.
Both are reinforced at the joint, see below.


2 cones



Joint Reinforcement

3 - 30 - 2014

1 - The cone is set up on a waxed paper surface. Measurements are taken to ensure the tip of the inner cone is centered in the larger cones outer rim.
Long Fibers are stripped out of a glass roving material for fiber glass work, and carefully placed at the small gap between the two cones. A small amount of Epoxy is mixed then poured into the gap sealing to bottom edge of both cones. Fast Epoxy is used in this one, using number 1 hardener for the system 3 Epoxy, and 15 minutes is more then enough time to pour this in. The thicker it is the less will be lost at the bottom during the first seal of the gap.

2 - An hour later many more fiberglass strings are laid into the trough for a much thicker ring to be poured to reinforce the strength of the joint location. Now that the bottom edge is sealed we can pour a full 3 ounces in and not worry about any leaks.

Joint Photos

3 - Showing after the 3 oz pour, the liquid and glass roving strands go clear, and start to warm up from the endothermic reaction of the fast hardener. A heat lamp about 4 feet overhead assists the hardening process, but must not be placed too close or left on too long or the liquid might go milky from hardening too fast. Mine stayed clear!

4 - Showing the finished bottom of the cone system now reinforced to support components at the middle when overturned. The waxed paper is easily pulled away as the Epoxy will not seal to it.

This thick dielectric layer near the crossing point of the two cones, other then for strength, will have approximate VOP .60, and should increase the capacitance between the two cones a little over air.



Joint 1 completed


Showing the first joint completed using 1/2 of each cone. The other two will be joined also exactly the same, with 4 turns removed where the wires cannot pass though one another.
A crossover core will be wound to fit into the missing space.

Bottom Extension

6 - 24 - 2014

After the first cone sets were measured for EM resonance it was determined I needed about 4 more wraps at the base to tune into the 333000 Hz target frequency.
I poured a resin ring around the base plywood, to extend the cone surface another 5/8 inches to make the last few wraps.

Construction cardboard was bent around the base following the angle of the cone then trimmed, waxed on the inner surface, then secured tightly with staples and electrical tape stretched tight to contain the resin.
It took two 3 Oz pours to fill it to the bottom of the plywood base.


Bottom Pour



The cardboard had a tendency to soak up some of the resin and had to be sanded off smooth.

Bottom Ring

Here is the completed ring extending the cone surface down to the bottom of the plywood base.
The cone is again waxed with 3 coats of the release agent [Orca Shimmer] all the way down over the new ring.



The bottom pin was then drilled and set to allow for 4 additional wraps.

Bottom Wind Pin

Here is shown a completed wound coil, meeting the new base at the correct 33 degree taper and secured around the pin, now ready for the resin to be applied.


This time Aluminum Foil to catch all the resin drips.

Bottom Foil





Extended Coil

Showing the fully extended coil with the first coat of resin.




Crossover Core

4 / 12 / 2014

7 inch inner diameter
4 wraps high and 2 wraps wide.


Crossover Coil Completed

Yellow wire was added for clarity.  After two wraps CW the wires are twisted CW reversing inside to outside.

The outer wire on the bottom [red] becomes the inner wire on the top, and joins the two parts of cone 1.
The inner wire on the bottom [yellow] becomes the outer wire on the top, and joins the two parts of cone 2.

The voltage across the two wires of this coil will be .707 of the peak voltage at the ends of the coils [top and bottom].
If that voltage exceeds the insulation of the wire, this is likely where we can expect a short circuit.
A new crossover core coil can then be made with better insulation, and the unit replaced without rebuilding the entire cone system.

For final assembly and wiring see the next document : 

Crossover Core Construction { part 2}



Videos

Cone Coil Jig Functional


Energy points



Credits

Ron Pugh, for without his expertise in making the original wooden cone, I would still be pondering clay and plaster molds.

Daniel Endy group owner of the Yahoo Space-time-antenna group, for organization of the Bashar materials and fact data, as well as the group membership for supportive inputs and suggestions.

Members of the dltrosiondevice group for the excellent support on the Walter Russel drawings and interpretations, as well as electronics assistance.

David Lowrance - document organization, and first cone builds, to determine reasonable wire lengths and resulting frequencies for dual inter penetrating cones.


Public Domain Statement

All information here within may be shared freely in the public domain. All drawings, photos, and or prose, may be reproduced as anyone would choose to use them personally, or in other references. There are no copyrights on this site. The information belongs to all of us and is offered for use by anyone. What we give to the world freely, may not be sealed away in secret for personal or corporate interest.

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groups/space-time-antenna

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Dave L
Document start date 3 / 10 / 2014