Joe Cell Charging Sequence


6 / 24 / 8
Due to multiple failures, I have endeavored to record the basic steps to get a Joe Cell up and working clean. This may be helpful for a novice.
These procedures were come by after many failures, but may lead to a cell that will sustain itself and never die over time, not need to be refilled much, while not producing or manifesting a continual precipitation of solids such as iron.

Also I hope to offer an intuitive set of observations as to the torsion states of the cell for those developing sensitivity in this direction.
For powering an engine it must be clearly understood we do not want an outflow torsion field, but an inflow. This is done by setting up the correct cell voltage polarity. Negative or ground potential will go on the inner tube, and outer can is a Positive for only a short period to start the cell and align it properly. If done correctly the water will instantly produce gas with the slightest of vacuum applied.

It is highly recommended those studying the Joe Cell effect watch the videos referenced at the bottom, and hear it "striaght from the horses mouth" as Joe has allowed these to be shared.


There is a lot of good info written to date on the Joe Cell units, and as many ways to do this as there are experimenters, but there are several things found to be common that do not change.
This document will update anyone following my own research, and in the past two documents, there are many problems encountered if trying to interface to a car, and many incorrect notions addressed.
I am thankful I have had Bernie to keep coaxing me and correcting my thinking at each step through the process this time. I have learned more then most simply from doing exactly as he instructed, but I have needed this record because these concepts do not seem logical at first.


Joe Cell Basics - Hydrogen Breeding Mode


Graphic polarization

The positive wire is tapped on the outer can 4 times and then removed, in the latest versions of the JC videos, and like a magic spell the cell comes to life, producing a + voltage on the outer can as well as gas on demand by vacuum.

There are many descriptions of cell dynamics, so I will add my own present mental model here, from what I have observed only on the bench to date. The cell is a "breeder" that harnesses the vibrations of H and O. Once properly powered up it creates H atoms with no end in the form of monotomic Hydrogen, or even possibly some smaller more primal version of H atoms. If not set up correct it may also produce solids seemingly having no end, and continue to crud up the surfaces of the cell, even after the water has been filtered repeatedly.

It is not our goal to break down and loose the water inside the cell, but to set up a torsion process, which may even lead to breeding H and O atoms within a vacuum anywhere nearby. Anywhere we channel the gas inside the cell and out the tube, there will follow a strong H vibrational field. What I have come to sense as the "H field."

Cell geometry in this case with negative inwards, and very low voltages used to charge the cell, will produce a self sustaining effect where by a constant supply of some kind of gas is present, and the water level will not drop in the cell. The water expands slightly, and is easily gassed by adding a vacuum. Monotomic Hydrogen is the smallest atom there is, it can escape any container. I believe it is only the diamagnetic field once it is built that can contain it, and sustain it in this form for more then a small time period. As well, the best metals to hold this are SS and Aluminum, as they provide a diamagnetic field. In a plastic container all the H atoms will escape quickly, and only H2 and O2 will be left, and these are far less energetic configurations for building a diamagnetic field.

I have identified two of the strongest torsion vibration fractal resonant lengths in this breeding mode at 4.2 cm and 7.2 cm that are radiant very near the cell. Fashioned two resonant devices that can help to identify if this energy is present. A disc and tube. Pictures further down will be offered showing the significance. If you are torsion sensitive these tools may help you to identify if and when the cell enters a higher density operation level.

Notes from the videos:

In one of Peters videos, he states the tubes can be polarized each one, by holding the negative wire on the bottom outer surface, and taping now the positive wire to the inner upper surface. Once all the tubes are aligned this way now the entire assembled cell is also done this way. Ground the negative to the outside center tube at bottom, and move down the tubes hitting each one on the inside with the positive wire. [I will do this on my next cell assembly and see if the cell comes up correctly. Below is my own method used after the water is in the cell to reverse a wrong polarity.]

"Joe" also speaks out against using Aluminum or Copper in the cells, as copper will create dirty water that cannot be cleaned, and aluminum will corrode away fast when water and electricity hits it.
Cone lids are not necessary. Simple flat or tapered, or even rounded lids can all be used effectively.
3 gases are identified by the sound of the pop when lit off using matches. One will explode, one will implode, and the third may be doing both, but it seems to be the most powerful one.

Water Conditioning and Passivation Process

This is the absolute most important step and the easiest to accomplish, but the last thing anyone wants to read about. I might add the cheapest part of JC work you will ever do and will save you many hours of wasted time in the future, cleaning up messy rust colored water and cells. If you skip either of these steps, I promise you will be revisiting this at a later date or you may just give up the endeavor.
Before you actually get to the point of filling a beautiful shinny new Stainless Steel [SS] Joe Cell, you have to be sure that after the water hits the cell it will not instantly start to create rust. Rust in massive amounts. While SS is created to stay rust less above the water level, under the water is a different story, especially after the electricity hits the cell. To stay shinny the SS must have a good supply of Oxygen, and instead of rusting, it produces Chromium Oxides, that form a layer of Chrome on its beautiful shinny surface.

If you charge a cell up backwards and also use it to clean the water you may rust it up quite fast. Charged the correct way, after a Passivation cycle, it may never rust again. The cell in the above photo was just passivated, notice the shine on the tubes. For the previous few months it sat with heavy iron layering in a reversed charged state after I had been incorrectly electrolyzing the water inside it, to study the outflow effects of the torsion field.

Rule 1, passivate the two important components that will be used to charge the cell.

 1 - The cell itself
 2- The Electrolyzer or water conditioner element

Rule 2, Build an electrolyzer

Pic Electrolizer 1

This unit was made from 6 very cheap SS electric switch cover plates. It took one hour to create using small cable ties and two pieces of SS wire, and 10 pieces of plastic stand offs of 1/4" thickness.
I simply ran the cable ties through the holes already present, and then the spacers, and on the outside they even grab the electrodes. Two cable ties through each hole and then joined and ends and cut.

I later found out that these should be built with 1/8" gap and replaced the spacers. At 1/4" gap they set up a linear torsion field, and this is a noteworthy experiment in itself, very similar to a tube device but not useful for the water conditioning phase. [The conventional Joe Cell method would use one more plate and connect a third wire to center plate, with two each neutral plates between them, on each side, and will need less voltage then mine. This method runs the outer voltages both towards the center. See the videos and note Joes stack of funnels.] Mine workes fine however for cleaning up the water and giving it an initial electric charge.

Rule 3 do not electrolyze the water in the Joe Cell - this is a cleaning step for the electrolyzer. The Joe Cell geometry is what adds the torsion field charge.

Passivation


Pic passivation 2

I use a chemical called Ospho, I mix it 50 percent with water so it will bubble a rich supply of Oxygen. It is green and contains a high concentration of Chromium atoms which give it the dark green tint, and a host of other nasty stuff like acids. Place the electrolyzer into the mix and then apply about 5 volts which will produce about 5 amps, for only a few minutes. The resistance of the liquid is very low. There are many small white bubbles produced. Now reverse the polarity for an equal time. You have now fully electroplated all the surface with a new layer of chromium oxides due to the heavy oxygen bubbling this produces around all the surfaces. All the rust should be gone if there was any present, and the metals will have a much greater resistance to rusting, especially if they are anything less then surgical grade SS. This method is fast and seems to produce good results for me.

pic Passivation 1

Now do the same to the cell. Fill to the top of the tubes with the liquid and then electrolyze it at about 5 volts, 5 amps with DC, both directions to plate all surfaces that will be under water.
Save the Ospho mixture for next time, it is expensive. Your two water conditioning components are now passivated. They will shine as if new, and if used properly will not rust up, or add to the waters iron content.

Condition the Water

Pic Electrolizer 2

Tap water, water is water right? All of it has the potential to be a vibrant life form if cleaned and cleared! Just like us.
Bernie states, "1 amp hour of  juice." This could be 1 amp for 1 hour, 1/2 amp for 2 hours, or 4 amps for 15 minutes. He also recommends many breaks to make sure water does not get too hot and boil out. I used 100 vdc from a couple very nice stable power supplies and could only get .4 amps, so it took me a bit of time using the 1/4" spacing plates. This will remove impurities and finally make very small white bubbles when completed. They call this "stage 3" water, and is easier and faster to make outside the Joe Cell then inside. Much easier to clean up the mess also.

During the process the water must be filtered as the impurities drop out. Here was the worst of my first batch.

Pic electrolizer 4

Filtering removes the iron as it falls out during the electrolyzing step.

Pic filtering

I filtered about 4 times during the cleaning process.
I used a SS mesh cauldron setting on a SS funnel in the top of the plastic jug, with a paper towel filtration system that seems to grab the rust and the heavy water also which will not want to go through the filter.

Alternate water precleaning method - using magnets

It was later discovered that by wrapping the copper water line in the house with 4 stacks of neo magnets with South poles inwards, and using layers of duct tape to isolate the metals, the water became very clear. Conditioning  no longer produced the iron deposits from my local hard water. This is a technique for cleaning up water in ones house, and I can now fully testify it seems to work well.
Joe tells us that copper cannot store water without producing large amounts of nasty filth, and that you cannot keep water clean inside copper. The magnets were a nice discovery, thank you Smokey of the c_s_s_p group for recommending this. Both copper and aluminum are not good elements to store drinking water in, the magnets help tremendously. The water will still have to be electrolized now, but far less iron will manifest during this process.


Water is now ready to go in the cell. I have processed two batches, about 1 gallon. This water feels charged, and produces very tiny white bubbles near the end of the electrolizing process. After two days of setting in the pitcher it still feels vibrant. Make sure the water has fully cooled before filling the cell, as the electrolizing process can heat it up.

pic clean water filled cell

Here you can see, for the first time ever, my water is completely clean after a week of cell operation with proper polarity and inflow torsion established.
This was not an accident, and one more step must be fully grasped to get to this level, proper charging.

Charging the Cell

I used a digital voltmeter, to read between each tube without loading the voltages with an older low impedance, opened face meter. If you were to just pour the electrolyzed water in and start reading the gaps, the voltage between successive tubes, and they all came out with + to the outside then you would have a perfect charge! However for me this is unlikely and some method of altering things is needed to produce consistent results, even for a stubborn gap that won't reverse. If your water is freshly electrolyzed this could in fact happen! I have yet to witness this miracle. One water section may often come up with reversed voltage polarity.

I set up a low pulsing voltage on the cell before filling it with the water, and then I pour it in slowly so as to not generate too much bubbling.

Pulsing Voltage:
I sat up a charging pulser system for an absolute polarizing of the tubes based on the cells resonance dynamics and final voltage.
This involves a function generator with a DC offset. I scanned the cell and discovered a torsion resonance at 5 hz.

The composite signal I apply is ground on the center tube and a +4 volts pulsing to +3 volts at 5 Hz on the outer can, using a 40 / 60 duty cycle. This pulse is + more then it is negative, and this is important. It is biased positive to ensure we will not interfere with the cells natural final voltage, and still produce a small negative pulse to the top of it. After this negative going pulse is released the cell sucks this energy into its torsion field, and slowly exposes more diamagnetic field during the longer 60% of the cycle. The field then begins to grow, and it is a conscious field. What I now refer to as the "H field." [The diamagnetic Hydrogen resonance.]

Graphic charging wave

I believe too much voltage will act against you and delay stable settling in of the self sustaining torsion field forming. We are trying to bring the cell up to its natural voltage without too much electron activity, and using this method was amazingly easier then all the bubbling you could do for hours. Joe Cell orthodoxy states to connect the negative wire first and remove it last, I have no such beliefs as of yet and believe it is all in the amount of electrons we set in motion that will determine the outcome, but be warned, it may be a good habit to form early on with the cells as later in the car currents may go much higher then in my charging cycle here. The cell can be totally reversed if this is not done correctly in the car.

Reverse Polarized Gap:

If you have a reversed polarized gap simply move the leads directly across that gap. Joe recommends proceeding from the outside inwards as I recall, but I see no need to pulse a gap that has already polarized correctly with electrolyzed water already in the cell. Work the gaps until all have a voltage drop in the correct direction, then pulse the entire cell for a couple minutes again to make sure it equalizes. The above chart is actually a little more then needed and the 3 volts can be reduced to 1.5 to be more accurate in the Northern Hemisphere. I first used only 2 volts pulsing to 1 volt and got my stubborn gap to reverse in a matter of seconds. Before this, I may have needed to remove the tubes and do some rather nasty things, including palming them all again or banging them with a hammer when the moon is full! LOL! [Peter has now shown us an easier method during cell assembly described above, in the Video Notes section.]

A Coherent Torsion Field:

Now if you have not made any bubbles the torsion will become coherent and hold the charge aligned perfectly. In the Northern Hemisphere this is observed around 1 to 1.5 volts that will remain constant. In the Southern Hemisphere it is around 3 volts. This is what I call conscious level 1, a self sustaining torsion field.

I believe this step is the art of Joe Cells and what sets up the unusual magic possible. It can also be done with DC but it is very hard to reverse an incorrect gap in this way. Very low voltage pulsing is the fastest method I have used to date. Coaxing the positive H atoms to grab the negative electron pulses energy, and giving long enough rest timing for it to take between negative going pulses.

After you remove the charging leads, the cell will now start to naturally equalize and the torsion field will continue to grow. As long as you feel the field present it is probably ok. The voltage on the inner gap will normally drop and on the outer cell gap will increase. As long as none reverse you have succeeded! The cell is now charged.
I place a flat Aluminum plate over the cell and this will increase the charging as well as help hold the alignment for the first few hours while the SS atoms adjust also to the field presence and all the tubes fully align. The tubes will be forming diamagnetic node imprints, that can be located long after they are removed from the cell and dried!

I also discovered in this step that the inner SS wire electrode I simply coiled and pressed inside the inner tube interferes with the cells torsion output, enough that I removed it completely after the initial charge took. This seems to verify that when made permanent it should be on the outside lower edge of this inner tube for an inflow cell configuration. This is opposite I found for an outflow setup in previous experimental documents. This also confirms for me what Bernie had stated earlier on this subject as to where to place the wire.


Playing with the Energy - Propagation

Rod Probing:

Using many of my Light Resonant rods I probed the cell over days and determined the strongest coupling point is at the exact center of the cell. Any Light resonant rod with end placed here will light up with the H field and propagate it strongly to all its node positions above the cell and into you holding it. 1/2" OD SS tubing was the best coupling. I finally sat down and did a wire cutting session right over the cell. Bernie had suggested I try tunning into the water itself and find lengths to interact at this level. I did scans, one for the vertical and one for the horizontal. I ended up with a great many vertical lengths and only a few horizontal ones.

Resonant Lengths Observed:

I discovered that copper is not a good propagator of the H field due to its tendency to shift the energy downwards to its own numbing vibration, but the SS and the Aluminum interact strongly and still preserve the strength of the H field without sucking it down in vibration. The H atom has the highest frequency I have felt to date resonating in a 4.2 cm SS wire rod when held in the horizontal position around the cell. A 7.2 cm SS wire resonates the vertical field most strongly, and I associate this with the O atoms. These are a best guess from how they feel. I tried a scalar copper coil on the tube and decided it lowered the H field and produced a nasty "headache level" copper frequency.


pic tapping the top

Charged Water with Vacuum:

I fabricated a SS tube threaded into the Aluminum top plate, with a quick gasket material to seal the seam for vacuum tests.
Pressing down on the top I then sucked in the tube and was amazed that the water, after setting several days, instantly gassed and bubbled up, wetting the top on the inside of the lid completely.
Normal water having set for about two days will generally go completely flat, and this is how you treat aquarium water. This was my next clue that Joe Cell water is not in the normal flat state even after days setting in a charged cell. The gas continues to fill it as it also leaks out the top, while the water level does not appear to drop as it did with the opposite outflow polarity I used in my past experiments, with the cell that had to be topped again weekly.

Torsion Propagation:

I tested resonant hollow tube lengths over the Aluminum plate before cutting the hole, as well after cutting the hole to allow the gas to escape through the tube. There is an incredible difference in the field when gas is present inside the tubing. The "H field" is far more present and active with the gas present, and a bigger hole made a considerable difference.

Pic Vertical resonator

This photo shows a 7.2 cm long 1/2" ID copper tube slid down over the 1/2" OD SS tube.
This acts mainly as a spacer for the next resonant disc.

Horizontal resonator


The disc is cut from the 1/2" hole outwards to be 4.2 cm radius and acts like a circle of light resonant rods convergent on the central gap. The effect is very strong and introduces another form of Light resonant devices. It is my "H field" sensing disc. Stick a finger in the hole at center and get hit with a taste of the H field frequency. I enjoyed it for several days before setting it back on the Cell tube.


These two resonant devices can be used to find nodes in the tube leaving the cell, as well they can indicate if the gas is present inside the tube, as they will light up much more intensely when it is. If nothing else they could be tools for cutting the end tube length to locate the best node area. Placing a hand between the cells top plate and the resonant disc is a fast initiation of the H field at a very intense level.


Monotomic Hydrogen can be very dangerous. In the next experiments with Joe Cells it must be understood, read every thing you can about this gas. I recommend the Browns Gas pamphlets printed by George Wiseman from Eagle-Research. And then watch every video you can find on cars running on Joe Cells. As everyone else ever creating a document I must state fully, if you do this, it is at your own risk. Monotomic Hydrogen gas burns first with an implosion reducing its volume by half, and then inside this an explosion. In the cylinder we are trying to stretch these out into opposing motions of the piston. If the right combination is hit on, then possibly even Nitrous Oxides can form at the top of the process. Generally a good mix of CHON will all be present, the building blocks of life as we know it. A changing air pressure is all that is necessary for many interactions mainly of Nitrogen, Oxygen, and Hydrogen, and many of the atoms present will be in transition between diatomic, and monotomic states. It is when Hydrogen is in its monotomic state that it may produce extreme large diamagnetic fields, possibly even strong enough to push the intake valves closed so the cylinder may now hold a strong enough vacuum to create nitrous oxides in small amounts, that explode along with the H2 and O2 to make a burn during the second half of the cycle.

Simply realize that if you trap in or collect these gases anywhere in a system they may become bombs. They can implode, they can explode, or they can do both. The cell may be breeding a constant supply of H atoms and O atoms as well. If these get out of the cell to the opened air they will quickly drop below the flash point concentration, but if they collect upwards anywhere in containment, they may explode with very little excitation energy needed. As the gases set they will convert to H2 and O2 in the air which already has some content of both present. We do not want to store them anywhere.


Engine Operation

My understanding to date on running an engine is that there are two steps to the process, for a breeder cell, or what is called a blind plug operation. This is where the tube from the cell is fully blocked off and no gas is fed into the engine at all. The engine is running on the air intake and whatever is happening [breeding] in the vacuum of the intake manifold, as a result of the cells vibrations. In Kosols Guardian sphere systems we noticed that when using large vacuum CRT tubes much higher voltages would appear. So the idea of breeding monotomic Hydrogen in a vacuum is not entirely without basis, if there is a torsion field present. Joes latest videos indicates he sees this as a vibration process happening inside the manifold and cylinders. He offers the Sterling engine be studied, to grasp this.

1 - The engine is set up with a cell to feed the air intake of the carburetor, where the crankcase vent usually enters. Gas from the cell, pulled by vacuum, enters the carb. The timing is slowly advanced as the gasoline flow is reduced. This is called Shandy mode, where the gasoline has not been fully removed, but the car is receiving more power. At about 70 degrees advanced from Top Dead Center, the gasoline is shut off and the engine is tunned up and tweaked to run with the gas from the cell produced, under vacuum on the cell. The tube is insulated from the intake on the carb using a short rubber hose. This keeps its' self generated + voltage off the engine, but allows the gas to pass, without shorting out the cells internal voltage. SS heavy cells are recommended that can fully resist this vacuum, plastic is dangerous and will start to swell.

There is also a safety issue in this direct connection that an explosion or implosion could travel backwards if the vacuum in the engine was lost, destroying the cell. Often a second water container is added to bubble the gas through before it hits the carb. As the timing is being advanced this is a very good possibility for a backfire. This was never dealt with in the Joe Cell materials I have accessed, and I suspect it would alter the diamagnetic fields considerably by routing the tubes through another container of water. Step 1 however is not the end all, and is only a temperary step to getting the engine resonant to the cell.

2
- Now the tube is removed from the carb, the end is plugged with a rubber section still present, and moved about to find the best location for powering the car. The cell no longer looses water, yet continues to run the engine.

Whether the H atoms continue to move through the rubber end cap section or are now getting created inside the vacuum of the intake manifold from the cells field imprint is an interesting question, but they are not coming out of the water in the cell as it would then eat up probably a liter an hour or so, and it has been reported this is not the case.

To start the engine one must now seal the carb and generate an excessive vacuum on the intake manifold. Once going this can be released. The Throttle flapper may also need to be reversed to gain proper control of engine RPM and air intake is the only way to slow the engine. Higher vacuum = higher RPM and power. Lower vacuum = reduced RPM and power.

These are all the parameters I have been able to find presented is the simplest form I can come up with at present.

References and Credits:

Positive Power Zone Joe Cell video Page   authentic Joe Cell conversations with "Joe" and  Peter. [Witness Joe doing his magic and actually making water burn as if it were alcohol.]
Hosted by Kelburn Koontz of c_s_s_p group

Magnetizing and cleaning home water recommendation using magnets with South poles inwards
by Smokey Dawson of c_s_s_p group

Cleaning, clearing, and electrolyzing water, preparation techniques and methods
by Bernie Heere of c_s_s_p group

Document author, compilations, experiment, photos - [torsion sensitive observations]
by David Lowrance of c_s_s_p group

"Joe" and Peter of the "Joe Cell" development in Australia, thank you for sharing and for videos. Without your considerable efforts none of us could be studying these techniques.

JoesCell2 discussion group

Joe Cell Free energy Device discussion group

And thank you Alex Schiffer for considerable reference materials and discussion group efforts, and all others participating in the effort to reach comprehension.


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