Working With Bismuth

Notes from 5 / 18 / 2013
Making the Active Bismuth Elements for the Aetheric Tube Device

Working With Bismuth Photo

Aluminum must be avoided as a support casing, they must slide into the 1/2" copper tube of the Device as bare Bismuth rods, to be adjustable in position.
Many techniques were explored, to make a Bismuth rod that will just slide inside a 1/2" ID copper tube.

The technique that worked best, is shown in the photos above.
The copper tubes are cut very accurately to 4.65" [ 118.125 mm] and then used as a mold to pour the Bismuth into.
Later they will be used to grind the Bismuth to length on the grinder, and then to store the Bismuth element in while not in use.

Waxed paper is cut to make at least 3 wraps inside the copper tube, which has an actual Inside Diameter slightly larger then 1/2".
The waxed paper is first rolled up on the smaller Aluminum tube shown above.
The inside of the copper tube is sprayed with WD40 just before inserting the waxed paper.
The Aluminum tube is then inserted with the waxed paper inside the copper tube, and gently wiggled around to expand the paper to meet the sides of the copper.
It will stick on the WD40 and become wet with the oil, as the paper coil expands to meet the insides of the copper tube.
This will allow the finished Bismuth core to be gently tapped out of the copper tube after it cools.
If you do not get enough wraps the core will be too tight to remove without damaging it, and must be melted or pounded back out.
If you get too many wraps, the finished core will slide very loosely into the copper tube.

Melting and Pouring

Pouring Bismuth Photo

Molds were tried with talcum powder, spray on powder, and waxed paper whetted with WD40.
They are placed on a cake pan covered with two layers of tin foil, and then modeling clay is pressed firmly around them to seal the bottom crack and hold them in position.
Longer tubes were set in a test tube holder, which proved to be a mistake as the rubber melted during cooling, and also the cores could not be removed.

Pouring Bismuth photo 2

Caution is in order, never touch the handle of the melting pot without the cooking mitt.
On the right a successfully poured Bismuth Rod using waxed paper and WD40 lubricant.
If you cool the mold fast with ice, it will crystallize the Bismuth, and the rod will be far more fragile and prone to breakage.
Let the mold cool very slowly, and the finished rod will be much stronger.
Crystallization has no effect on the Torsion Field properties at the nuclear core of the atom.


Broken Core Photo

This image shows a total failure event. Everything that could go wrong did.
The mold was wrapped with two layers of tin foil and sprinkled with talcum powder, then cooled using ice around the base as it was poured.
The fast cooling caused heavy crystallization of the Bismuth making it more fragile to shattering, as you can see in the edges where it fractured.
The tin foil tended to compress and clump on one end, as the core was pounded out, and tended to block the extraction of the Bismuth rod.
The talcum powder was far too thin to form any advantage in removal, as a lubricant.
The core had to be beaten out using a bolt and hammer, and was shattered as it fell.
If you get everything just right, the core will tap loose with a palm strike and slide right out with finger pressure.


Grinding To Fit Photo

The loose rods are now reinserted back into the copper tubes for grinding off the excess Bismuth.
To hit the fractal resonance vibration when joined together a caliper can be set up at 9.3011" [236.25 mm].

Tube Placed End to End for measuring photo

The two Bismuth rods set touching at the middle, should just slide inside the calipers, and vibrate up strongly.
Grinding is done slowly to avoid chipping the edges, and ending with a relatively flat end.
I was able to get them within about .02 mm accuracy.

Finished Cores Photo

The Bismuth cores are then stored inside the copper tubes, and removed only to insert into the Aetheric tube device.
Avoid dropping them!
Store them side by side, to avoid resonance.
They are each 3.5 x of the Earth Grid Inflow Resonance.
Together they form a 7x polarized inflow power length.
If you are not used to feeling this, it can cause mild disorientation, as the field comes up.
After acclimation, it feels rather nice to work with.

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Dave L